A Unique Start to the Day
Yesterday, we had the privilege of experiencing Lahore’s rich history through a private tour with our guide. The tour was set to start at 3:30 PM, so we had a bit of time before meeting up. Our morning began with a unique breakfast ordering system at the hotel, where we placed our order by phone and waited about an hour for delivery. One thing I quickly learned about Pakistan is that tea, which I had expected to arrive almost immediately, actually takes a bit longer than anticipated. Lesson learned—it’s best to order with a bit of extra time on hand.
With time to spare, we headed towards the shopping streets to buy some local attire and a hijab. Along the way, we stumbled upon a charming second-hand bookstore where my husband bought a book about the history of Pakistan. After purchasing the hijab and a chadar (a men’s shawl), we tried on our new purchases, but the intricacies of how to wear them were a bit tricky. Fortunately, a local was kind enough to help us dress properly.
The streets were filled with fascinating handmade goods—from shoes and jewelry to intricate handcrafted items passed down through generations. However, the most striking sight was the spice shops, where massive sacks containing more than ten kilograms of spices were stacked high. The sheer scale of it was overwhelming.
A Taste of Local Flavor
Hoping to grab a quick lunch before our meeting time, we searched for a place inside the Delhi Gate area. Unfortunately, there weren’t many sit-down restaurants, just roadside vendors. As it seemed a bit too advanced for us, we opted to try something simple: steamed sweet potatoes. While they looked like regular potatoes, their taste was more akin to sweet potatoes. To our surprise, they were served chopped into pieces and sprinkled with spices. The simplicity of it was delightful.
My husband and I had been able to communicate in English up to this point, but for the first time, we faced a language barrier. Using Google Translate, I tried to ask how much something cost in Urdu, but it didn’t quite work. Just as we were feeling a bit lost, a kind local teenager approached us and offered assistance, explaining that the cost was 120 rupees. Once again, we were blown away by the kindness of the people here.
The Chai Adventure
As we continued to search for a place to sit and relax, we found a small indoor space where people were gathered to enjoy music and chai. Despite our limited time, we decided to enter, and a man playing a flute-like instrument greeted us, asking if we were from Japan. He said he could play a sound similar to the Japanese shakuhachi, and when we listened, it really did sound like it. He offered us chai, and although we had to leave quickly, he told us we could take it to-go. Unfortunately, “to-go” didn’t quite work out, so we paid for the chai and decided to return to drink it after the tour.
Once we met up with our guide, we explained our chai adventure and headed back to the chai shop. Fortunately, the tea was reheated, and we enjoyed a steaming cup of delicious chai.
Stepping into History: The Shahi Hammam
Our first stop on the tour was the Shahi Hammam (Royal Bath), a public bathhouse dating back to the early 17th century during the Mughal Empire. It was designed for relaxation and social gatherings, once frequented by travelers and nobles alike. The architectural design was inspired by Persian-style baths, complete with steam and warm baths, and beautifully adorned with frescoes depicting plants and geometric patterns. The bathhouse had unique features, including walls designed for secret meetings, adding an intriguing layer of history to the visit.
A Feast for the Senses: Local Delights
On our way, we sampled a traditional dish called Kozi Haleem, a thick stew made from wheat, meat, beans, and spices. The version we had used goat meat, and the addition of ginger gave it a deliciously rich flavor.
We also learned about the Ta’ziya, miniature tombs carried in procession to commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his family during the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. We watched a video of the Ta’ziya procession and were struck by the energy and passion of the event—an incredibly powerful display of devotion.
Majestic Mughal Architecture: Wazir Khan Mosque
Next, we visited the Wazir Khan Mosque, a beautiful example of Mughal architecture, known for its intricate tile work and colorful patterns. Built between 1634 and 1641, this mosque stands out as one of Lahore’s most iconic landmarks, much like the Taj Mahal, though it was not directly involved in its construction. Nearby, we stopped by a small shop where I had my hands decorated with Mehndi (henna), a tradition in Pakistani weddings to calm the bride’s nerves.
A Night of Local Traditions and Flavors
Our journey continued with a visit to a bustling night market, where our guide ordered a variety of local snacks for us to try, including a yogurt and curry mix, a cinnamon-flavored banana dessert, and a crispy snack covered in curry sauce. They were perfect for a light evening snack.
We explored more streets, including Bride Street, where glamorous wedding dresses were on display, and visited shops selling traditional handicrafts. Our next stop was the Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque), with its peaceful prayer hall and an electronic board displaying prayer times, particularly the six prayer sessions on Fridays.
Warm Hospitality and Cultural Immersion
As we wandered the streets, we were once again offered tea by a kind local, reinforcing the hospitality we had already experienced throughout the day. From there, we made our way to an antique shop specializing in brassware, a reminder of Pakistan’s Islamic heritage, and noticed the dense network of power lines, something we had also seen in India.
A Glimpse into Lahore’s Past: Haveli Barood Khana
Our final stop was the Haveli Barood Khana, a historical mansion built in the Mughal style. Once a residence for wealthy merchants, this building now serves as a cultural landmark, where we enjoyed a lively atmosphere as a wedding dress shoot took place. We sampled Trotters Mutton, a slow-cooked lamb dish, which was incredibly tender and rich in flavor.
Ending the Day on a Sweet Note
The day ended with a trip to Alif Chatkhala, a traditional eatery where we sampled spicy chicken and coconut milk-based desserts. As we sipped chai on a rooftop, we reflected on our day—filled with history, warmth, and the flavors of Lahore.
Tomorrow promises even more adventure as we explore the city further and visit the Wagah Border. Good night for now.
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