Waking up at 5:30 AM, we set out on a journey I had long anticipated—traveling from New Delhi to Amritsar Airport, and finally crossing the border into Pakistan. With no time for breakfast, the hotel thoughtfully packed a takeaway meal for us, a gesture that felt both convenient and kind.
The flight to Amritsar was smooth, but as soon as we landed, the atmosphere felt distinctly different. Many men wore turbans, a striking visual reminder that Amritsar is the spiritual heart of Sikhism. The turban, or dastaar, is a religious symbol worn by Sikh men to uphold the faith’s principles, including keeping their hair uncut (Kesh).
Amritsar is home to the magnificent Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib), the most sacred site in Sikhism, drawing millions of pilgrims annually. This explained the presence of so many turbaned men even at the airport.
We took an Uber to the Wagah border, but mentioning our plan to cross into Pakistan stirred mixed emotions among locals. Crossing the border seemed to evoke a sense of unease tied to the complex history between the two nations. Our Uber driver, upon hearing of our destination, shared a poignant story: his grandfather still resides in Pakistan, a relic of the 1947 Partition of India that divided families and land along religious lines. Hearing his perspective made the history we had only read about feel painfully real.
After a bit of negotiation, we paid extra for a one-way Uber trip—600 rupees plus a 100-rupee border entry fee. As we drove, I couldn’t help but notice how regional traffic norms varied. Our driver ignored the incessant seatbelt warning sound, a reminder that rules, though mandated, are often disregarded in parts of Punjab.
Upon reaching the border, our luggage was swiftly placed on the car roof—a style of transport that made us a bit uneasy. The driver advised us to bargain firmly with porters who would offer to carry our suitcase. Though we could have managed on our own, we paid 200 rupees to avoid the hassle, only to find out later that the distance was easily walkable.
Crossing the border itself was a surreal experience. Indian soldiers, towering and fit, bid us farewell with a mix of curiosity and formality, one even asking if we’d ever return. The imposing columns adorned with Gandhi’s photo stood as a reminder of India’s struggle for independence.
Once on the Pakistani side, the transition felt smoother than expected. Security checks were efficient, and persistent hawkers disappeared after a single refusal.
At the time of entry, I noticed a clever phrase displayed: “We respect all, but we suspect all.”
immigration caught my eye—simple yet profound, offering a sense of reassurance as we entered a new country.
We had planned to use the InDrive app for transportation but found no cars available near the border. Instead, we hired a rickshaw driver for 2,300 rupees, which felt like a reasonable compromise. Along the way, he entertained us with stories, pointed out landmarks, and even stopped at an ATM for us to withdraw cash.
As we moved away from the border, the scenery shifted. Initially, the area felt rural and underdeveloped, with stray cows and piles of rubble dotting the roads. But as we approached Lahore, the city revealed itself—a bustling hub of street vendors, banks, and universities.
To be honest, we hadn’t planned any tours or activities for our time in Lahore. Our only vague hope was to catch a glimpse of the historical charm of Punjab. With no clear itinerary, we decided to ask the hotel staff for recommendations. One of the staff members kindly suggested, “There’s a Japanese guest currently staying here. Perhaps you could ask them for some advice.” Intrigued, we decided to take his suggestion.
The Japanese traveler we were introduced to was traveling solo. He had arrived in Pakistan from Amritsar, India, and was planning to return the following day. He generously shared some tips with us:
• Haveli Restaurant: He recommended the rooftop view, which he described as stunning.
• Transportation: He advised that around famous temples, it might be hard to find transportation, so booking in advance or hiring a car for the whole day would be a good idea.
• Food: He suggested trying boti—spiced chicken—and handi, a curry-like dish.
• Apps: He mentioned having trouble with the authentication process for the InDrive app and instead used Careem, though the hotel staff later informed us that InDrive is more commonly used.
Discovering Lahore’s Charm
I found History by Night tour around Lahore Fort, which cost 2,000 PKR per person.
Initially, we wanted to purchase the tickets online, but it turned out that online booking required a local phone number. The website mentioned alternative spots where tickets could be purchased, so we decided to visit one of those locations. Unfortunately, the first spot didn’t sell the tickets and directed us to a ticket counter near Food Street, which was open until 7 PM.
Worried that the tour might sell out, we were trying to secure tickets early. However, it seemed that the tour wasn’t particularly crowded, and there was no need to rush.
Here, we encountered our first taste of Pakistani hospitality. A local resident not only looked up how to buy tickets but also gave us their name and phone number, saying, “Call me if you run into any trouble.” Their kindness left a lasting impression.
While at the ticket counter, some local children eagerly approached us. “Is that a camera? Where are you from? Can you show us Japanese money?” they asked with infectious curiosity. One even invited us for tea, which we had heard about on YouTube before arriving. Although tempted, we politely declined, explaining that we were heading to lunch first.
Lunch actually Dinner at Haveli Restaurant was as delightful as promised. The rooftop view of the mosque, though partially obscured by smog, was stunning. The food, less chili-laden than Indian cuisine yet richly spiced, was a comforting conclusion to the day.
History by Night: Lahore Fort
The evening was reserved for the History by Night tour of Lahore Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This guided experience was nothing short of magical, as the fort’s grandeur came alive under soft illumination. From intricately carved mosques to the sprawling courtyards that once hosted Mughal emperors, every corner whispered stories of a glorious past.
What set this tour apart was its immersive nature. Traditional music and dance performances added a layer of cultural richness, while local participants kindly translated portions of the Urdu commentary for us. Sharing this experience with both tourists and locals underscored the universal power of history to connect people across cultures.
After finishing the tour, a fellow participant offered me Meetha Paan, a traditional treat wrapped in a leaf with various herbs. The taste was incredibly unique, but I imagine it’s something like a minty palate cleanser, similar to a mint tablet (MINTIA) that you might have after a meal.
As for tomorrow, I hadn’t made any plans yet, but the same person from the tour kindly introduced me to a local guide. It looks like I’ll be having a guided tour tomorrow, which was a relief because I had found a few options on TripAdvisor for tours in Pakistan, but they were all quite expensive and had very few reviews. So, I’m glad to have secured a guide through this recommendation.
A Journey Through Time
Today’s journey from India to Pakistan was more than a geographical crossing—it was a dive into shared histories, complex relationships, and the resilience of human connections. From the lingering effects of Partition to the warm hospitality of strangers, every moment offered a new perspective. As we prepare for tomorrow’s adventures in Lahore, I can’t help but reflect on how travel continues to be the greatest teacher, bridging gaps and unraveling the stories that bind us all.
Good night from Lahore.
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