Mixed Emotions: A Birthday and Goodbye
Today marked a bittersweet occasion—my husband’s birthday and our final day in Pakistan. Before arriving, I was torn between two contrasting impressions of the country. On one hand, I had seen videos of a serene, tourist-friendly Pakistan filled with warm people. On the other, news reports of internal conflicts and protests left me hesitant. Yet, looking back, I am profoundly grateful that we made this journey.
Although we only explored Lahore, the people’s kindness, the rich Mughal-era heritage, and the poignant yet thought-provoking atmosphere near the India-Pakistan border left an indelible mark on us. Pakistan taught us not just about its history and culture but also about resilience and hospitality.
A Recovery and a Golden Birthday Celebration
Yesterday, my husband was in the worst health he’s experienced in years—bedridden and unable to move. Thankfully, he regained enough strength today to venture out, though his appetite was still minimal. Despite his condition, we couldn’t let his birthday pass without a celebration.
A cake we had impulsively bought the day before turned into the centerpiece of our little party. Its golden marzipan exterior was strikingly beautiful, but the true surprise lay inside—a cardamom-infused cream that offered a fresh and unexpected twist.
Immersing Ourselves in Lahore’s Heritage: Lahore Museum
Feeling encouraged by my husband’s recovery, we began our day at the Lahore Museum. Established in 1865, this treasure trove showcases South Asia’s intricate history, culture, and art. The museum itself, with its Mughal-inspired architecture from the British colonial period, is a sight to behold.
The Gandhara art collection was a standout. Sculptures of the Buddha, particularly the renowned Fasting Siddhartha, took our breath away. Unearthed from the ruins of Sikri, this 2nd-3rd century masterpiece vividly portrays Siddhartha’s six years of asceticism. The emaciated figure, with its sunken eyes and visible ribs, radiates a sense of profound spirituality and unwavering determination. Despite its frailty, the statue emanates kindness and strength—truly the pinnacle of Gandharan art.
Other highlights included Islamic art, such as Mughal miniatures and calligraphy, and a section dedicated to Punjabi culture, where intricate crafts, traditional garments, and maps illustrated regional diversity. Exhibits on colonial history and Pakistan’s independence were equally compelling, offering a nuanced perspective on the country’s formation.
Vibrancy at Anarkali Bazaar
Next, we made our way to Anarkali Bazaar, one of South Asia’s oldest markets. The bazaar’s name evokes the romantic legend of Anarkali, a Mughal-era dancer, adding a layer of mystique to its lively atmosphere.
The market buzzed with energy, offering everything from embroidered shalwar kameez to opulent wedding attire. What struck me most was the abundance of children’s clothing and toy shops, a reflection of Pakistan’s relatively high birth rate. Even in such a bustling space, the locals’ sense of style and attention to detail were evident in the beautifully designed garments.
A Modern Side of Lahore and Warm Hospitality
Later, we joined a friend we had met during a night tour for a city exploration. The itinerary included the University of the Punjab, Mall Road, and upscale areas like DHA (Defence Housing Authority). The contrast between Lahore’s historic old city and its modern, cosmopolitan districts was striking.
The evening ended with a visit to their home, where we were treated to biryani, yogurt-based salads, and decadent desserts. Their hospitality was overwhelming, especially considering we were recent acquaintances. When I asked why they were so kind, they credited Allah, a sentiment that underscored the positive influence of Islamic teachings on their generosity.
Through our conversations, we learned about the nuances of Pakistani society—such as the coexistence of Sunni and Shia Muslims and how these sects occasionally influence marriage dynamics. While caste systems officially no longer exist, their subtle influence persists in certain areas, particularly in matrimonial matters.
A Fond Farewell
As we made our way to Lahore Airport, we were forewarned to keep our expectations low. Yet, to our surprise, the airport had a few souvenir shops and kiosks. The shopkeepers, in true Pakistani fashion, added complimentary chips and cookies to our purchase, a final gesture of the kindness we had encountered throughout our trip.
While leaving was bittersweet, we are already dreaming of visiting Islamabad and Karachi in the future. Pakistan, with its unparalleled warmth and rich heritage, has left a lasting impression on us.
Thank you, Lahore, for the unforgettable memories and the warmest hospitality. Until we meet again—Khuda Hafiz!
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