Christmas morning greeted us quietly in Kerala, the festive cheer more understated than in some places, yet subtly woven into the ambiance of our hotel. The faint sounds of Christmas music played in the background, hinting at the season. As we made our way to breakfast, we were met with an array of local Indian dishes that instantly lifted our spirits.
Curry, as expected, was the centerpiece—so many kinds, each bursting with vibrant colors like pink and red that piqued our curiosity. What exactly gave them that striking hue? Interestingly, the absence of freshly steamed rice surprised us. Instead, the spread was dominated by breads and rice-based alternatives. Do people in this region skip rice for breakfast? It was a small cultural discovery that added to our morning’s charm.
After breakfast, we headed to Bluemarine Backwaters, excited for a boat tour. The journey offered breathtaking views of migratory birds, mangrove forests, and Cochin’s iconic Chinese fishing nets. Our driver, a Yamaha motorbike enthusiast, shared his dilemma of finding spare parts for his vintage model, sparking a lively conversation about the popularity of Japanese brands like Yamaha, Suzuki, and Toyota in India.
The boat tour itself was a serene hour-long escape into nature. Seeing the Chinese fishing nets up close, exploring waterborne farming houses, and even climbing onto a mangrove tree—a sturdy, surprising experience—added a touch of adventure to the day.
Next, we spontaneously decided to visit the Kerala Folklore Museum. This wasn’t on our original itinerary, but we felt the urge to delve deeper into Kerala’s heritage beyond its scenic beauty. The museum turned out to be a treasure trove, showcasing over 3,000 artifacts curated by its passionate founder, George Thaliath Saras. From ancient wood carvings and musical instruments to traditional costumes, every piece told a story. Even the building itself, designed in Kerala’s traditional architectural style, was an artwork in its own right. My husband mused about buying some of the displayed items someday—if only we lived in a house grand enough to match their grandeur.
Our cultural exploration continued at the Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace. Originally gifted by the Portuguese to the Cochin Maharaja in 1555 and later renovated by the Dutch, the palace is a historical testament to the era of European colonial influence in India. Its walls adorned with exquisite murals from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, the palace felt like a bridge between Kerala’s traditions and its colonial past.
We then strolled through the nearby Jew Town, visiting the Paradesi Synagogue—the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth, built in 1568. The interior dazzled us with Belgian chandeliers, hand-painted Chinese tiles, and ancient Torah scrolls. It was a humbling reminder of the harmony with which Cochin’s Jewish community had coexisted with others in India for centuries.
For lunch, we were on a mission to try sadiya served on banana leaves. Despite our driver’s best efforts, we couldn’t find a restaurant offering banana leaves that day. Still, we settled for a “special meal” served on a plate for a mere ₹115 (about $2.30). The simple yet flavorful vegetarian dishes—served with rice at room temperature, a contrast to Japan’s piping-hot style—were a delightful revelation.
The afternoon was dedicated to relaxation at an Ayurvedic spa, where we experienced treatments like Kizhi, Abhyanga, and Shirodhara.
• Kizhi involved warm herbal poultices pressed firmly onto the body. Though the scent of herbs was more reminiscent of curry than a spa, the therapy’s invigorating effects were undeniable.
• Abhyanga, a full-body massage with warm medicinal oil, was pure bliss, melting away fatigue and tension.
• Shirodhara, where warm oil is gently poured onto the forehead, felt almost meditative. Despite initial hesitation, the rhythmic flow of oil brought an unexpected sense of calm.
Refreshed, we attended a Kathakali performance at the Great K V Kathakali Centre. The elaborate makeup, expressive storytelling through gestures and facial expressions, and the hauntingly beautiful sounds of the performance left us mesmerized. Arriving just 20 minutes before the show, we had to settle for seats on the second floor, but even from there, the drama was enthralling.
As night fell, the city glowed with festive lights, a mix of Christmas remnants and New Year preparations. For dinner, we indulged at Fort Paragon Restaurant, drawn by the promise of mango fish curry. While the curry was excellent, it was the spicy soups that stole the show—rich with crab stock, herbs like holy basil, and an unexpected warmth that lingered long after the meal. The desserts, especially the coconut-infused payasam, offered a perfect sweet ending.
Returning to our hotel, we navigated through the lively chaos of Cochin’s bustling streets. The city was alive, volunteers guiding traffic with heartfelt dedication—a testament to the vibrant spirit of this country.
Tomorrow, we board a train to New Delhi, ready for our next adventure. Goodnight, Kerala—you’ve been unforgettable.
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