Embarking on the second day of our Sri Lankan adventure, we joined a tour to explore the ancient wonders of Sigiriya, located in the Matale District of Sri Lanka’s Central Province. This UNESCO World Heritage site, often referred to as the “Lion Rock,” is renowned for its rich history and breathtaking views.
Our journey commenced with an early morning departure from our hotel in Negombo. At 6:00 AM, we were picked up by a comfortable bus, part of a group of approximately 15 travelers, all eager to delve into the cultural treasures that lay ahead. The three-hour drive to Dambulla was serene, offering glimpses of Sri Lanka’s lush landscapes bathed in the soft morning light.
Upon arriving in Dambulla, we paused for breakfast at a local eatery. The menu presented a choice between a traditional Sri Lankan buffet and a simplified English-style breakfast. Opting for the latter, we ordered café au lait, a mango milkshake, and a breakfast set. To our surprise, the mango milkshake resembled a custard in sweetness and was warmer than anticipated, defying our expectations of a chilled smoothie. The eggs, notably more yellow than the orange-hued yolks we’re accustomed to in Japan, added a unique touch to the meal.
With our appetites satisfied, we proceeded to the Dambulla Rock Temple, also known as the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple. This temple, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, is celebrated as Sri Lanka’s most well-preserved cave temple complex. Situated 148 kilometers east of Colombo and 72 kilometers north of Kandy, the temple comprises over 80 documented caves in its vicinity.
As we ascended towards the temple, our guide advised against touching the handrails—not due to their sanctity, but because local monkeys often soiled them. Indeed, monkeys were a common sight throughout the area. Inside, numerous Buddha statues stood in serene poses, each with distinct expressions and gestures. Our guide elucidated the significance behind each statue, enriching our understanding of Buddhist iconography.
The highlight was the second cave, known as the Maharaja Vihara, translating to “Great King’s Monastery.” This cave, the largest among the five, houses over 50 statues of Buddha and is adorned with intricate murals that left us in awe.
Our next destination was the iconic Sigiriya Rock. This ancient rock fortress, constructed in the late 5th century by King Kasyapa, who seized the throne after assassinating his father, stands as a testament to his quest for absolution and defense against retribution. The site features three distinct gardens: the Water Garden, the Boulder Garden, and the Terrace Garden, each showcasing advanced landscaping and engineering marvels of the time.
Initially, we intended to climb to the summit; however, upon learning from our guide that reaching the top required ascending 1,200 steps and, due to the holiday season and concurrent school trips, entailed a waiting time of approximately two hours, we reconsidered. A fellow traveler mentioned a wait of about 40 minutes, suggesting the delay might be shorter, but considering the group’s schedule, we decided against the ascent. Some determined individuals negotiated to proceed to the top independently—a testament to their resolve.
Following the Sigiriya visit, the group split into two: one faction embarked on a jeep safari, while others, including us, participated in a village tour. The tour commenced with a ride on a traditional bullock cart, transporting us to a rural setting that offered an authentic glimpse into Sri Lankan village life. Observing the treatment of the oxen, marked with inscriptions and occasionally prodded by their handlers, evoked a mix of contemplation and empathy.
Subsequently, we boarded a tuk-tuk, navigating through rugged terrain, followed by a serene boat ride where we were treated to the crafting of lotus leaf hats. Upon crossing the river, we arrived at a rustic hut, rich with cultural ambiance. The aroma of freshly ground coconut filled the air as a local woman demonstrated the traditional preparation of roti.
The meal that awaited us was a culinary revelation. An array of earthenware pots lined the table, unveiling a variety of curries—each distinct in flavor and consistency. Served on banana leaves, the meal epitomized authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. Eating with our hands, a customary practice, added to the immersive experience. Despite the absence of modern kitchen appliances, our hosts prepared this elaborate feast in just an hour—a testament to their culinary prowess.
The tour also included demonstrations of traditional roof-making using coconut leaves, rice milling, and rice flour production. A personal touch was added when our host shared a photograph of her daughter studying in Colombo, subtly appealing for support—a poignant reminder of the universal aspirations parents hold for their children’s futures.
While the day’s experiences were enriching, the conclusion was marred by an extended wait. Our tour concluded around 4:00 PM, but the jeep safari group was delayed. Parked in front of a silk shop, we were encouraged to browse, but after exhausting the shop’s offerings, we spent several hours idly waiting on the bus. The driver remained outside, engrossed in videos, offering no updates, while fellow travelers sighed intermittently. This prolonged delay tested our patience, yet it also provided an unfiltered glimpse into the leisurely pace that characterizes certain aspects of South Asian culture—a facet my husband found particularly intriguing.
We finally arrived back at our hotel around 10 PM, exhausted but fulfilled after the long day. With no nearby restaurants and zero energy to visit a supermarket, we decided to order dinner through Uber Eats. Our choices? A Chicken Mix Special, biryani, a mysterious dish called shawarma (which turned out to be similar to a croquette), and an egg curry. The total came to 2,910 Sri Lankan rupees—cheap, perhaps?
As expected, the delivery came without spoons, so we decided to practice eating with our hands once again. The biryani was intensely spicy, to the point that I questioned whether I’d make it through the meal. Thankfully, the sweetness of the pineapple offered the perfect counterbalance, rescuing me from culinary defeat.
The Chicken Mix Special was quite different from the photo on the app, but the ingredients seemed accurate—perhaps the kind delivery person mixed everything for us beforehand. The blend of Sri Lankan spices was absolutely divine, adding a richness that lingered with every bite.
After indulging in this flavorful feast, we fell asleep with full bellies and satisfied hearts. Tomorrow, we head to South India—a new adventure awaits, and I’m eager to discover how it compares to the vibrant world of Sri Lanka.
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