カテゴリー: Travel✈️

1. A Troubled Start to the New Year

January 1st should have been a day of celebration and new beginnings, but it turned into something quite different for us. The chaos of back-to-back travel left me so exhausted the night before that I fell asleep without even welcoming the new year properly. When I woke up at 7 a.m., my husband greeted me with unexpected words: “I have some sad news.”

2. A Sudden Change in Plans

His “news” turned out to be that he wasn’t feeling well. An upset stomach had left him weak and pale—a concerning start to what was supposed to be a relaxing day. Fortunately, we had planned a slower itinerary: a visit to a new friend’s home in the afternoon, someone we’d met on a local tour. Still, his discomfort meant the day’s plans had to be tentative.

3. The Flaws in Our Preparation

Prepared travelers as we are, we’d packed a variety of medications from Japan—diarrhea medicine, probiotics like Biofermin, and stomach remedies. But our foresight ended there. In my haste, I gave him what seemed most relevant without considering drug interactions or the importance of taking medication after food. Unsurprisingly, this backfired; his symptoms worsened. A valuable lesson learned—good preparation means knowing when and how to use the tools you bring.

4. Stepping Out Alone

Despite his condition, I needed to venture out alone to gather supplies. Tomorrow was his birthday, and I wanted to pick up a cake and some essentials like sports drinks and nutritional jelly. However, we faced another oversight: my husband was the only one with Indrive, the ride-hailing app. This meant I had to rely on my own two feet—a first for me in Pakistan.

5. Navigating a Foreign City

The bakery and supermarket were about a 20-minute walk away. Nervous but determined, I headed out alone, stepping into a world that felt foreign yet fascinating. The stares from passersby were unavoidable, though they seemed more curious than threatening. A few rickshaw drivers called out to offer a ride but quickly moved on when I declined.

6. The New Year’s Cake Surprise

At the bakery, I asked about a birthday cake, but the staff shook their heads. However, as I was about to leave, one of them stopped me. “We have New Year’s cakes,” they offered. Though not a birthday cake per se, the festive design and golden marzipan decorations seemed perfect for the occasion. At 2,000 rupees, it was also a bargain compared to Japanese standards.

7. The Quirks of a Pakistani Supermarket

Next, I headed to the supermarket in search of sports drinks and other essentials. This was my first time in a Pakistani supermarket, and it didn’t disappoint—quirky details, like receiving a numbered ticket at the entrance, added to the charm. The store had a cozy, local vibe, and staff were eager to assist.

8. Challenges at the Checkout

Finding a sports drink proved to be a challenge. After some searching, I found what appeared to be an oral rehydration solution, but the 3,000-rupee price tag caught me off guard. Embarrassingly, I had to ask the cashier to cancel it. As if on cue, the store plunged into darkness—an everyday occurrence in Pakistan, I would later learn. Still, the locals carried on without missing a beat, and so did I.

9. Returning to Care for My Husband

Back at the hotel, I handed over the provisions to my ailing husband, who gratefully sipped on Gatorade and ate some jelly. Though we couldn’t pinpoint the cause of his illness—perhaps the street food breakfast or last night’s mutton curry—we were at least prepared with some emergency sustenance like Japanese Weider in Jelly and Cream Genmai Bran. These items, though small, turned out to be lifesavers.

10. A Quiet New Year’s Day

As the afternoon stretched on, I ordered food from the hotel—a comforting dish of mutton handi and roti, recommended by the staff. With no energy to explore further, we spent the rest of New Year’s Day in bed, reflecting on our trip and hoping for my husband’s speedy recovery.

11. Hoping for a Better Tomorrow

Tomorrow is not only his birthday but also the day we bid farewell to Pakistan. Here’s to better health and new beginnings. Good night.

Morning Beginnings: A Cathedral and a Glimpse of Religious Harmony

Our day began with breakfast at the hotel before we were picked up by our guide to start an eventful journey. The first stop was the Sacred Heart of Jesus Cathedral. In a country where Islam is the predominant religion, seeing a Catholic church was both surprising and enlightening. It spoke volumes about the coexistence and acceptance of other faiths within Pakistan, offering a refreshing perspective on the country’s cultural and religious diversity.

A Glimpse of Bardari: The Structure of Twelve Doors

Next, we visited Bardari (بارہ دری), a historic architectural structure unique to India and Pakistan. While it was under renovation and not officially open, its beauty and cultural significance were undeniable. Bardari, meaning “twelve doors,” refers to a pavilion with twelve arches. Inside, we came across an exhibit featuring a timeline of protests that occurred on Mall Road, a colonial-era thoroughfare modeled after British designs. The timeline ended at 2023, leaving us wondering what might make history in 2024.

Halwa Puri: A Breakfast Worth Savoring

After some sightseeing, it was time for a traditional Pakistani breakfast: Halwa Puri (حلوہ پوری). This combination of sweet and savory flavors was a delightful surprise. The Halwa, a sweet semolina dessert, paired perfectly with the crispy Puri, a deep-fried bread, and the spicy curry. The blend of contrasting flavors was both unexpected and incredibly satisfying—a culinary experience not to be missed.

The Majesty of Badshahi Mosque

The next destination was the awe-inspiring Badshahi Mosque. Made from the same red sandstone as Lahore Fort, this mosque radiates a sense of grandeur. Its red hues stood out, a rare sight for us who were accustomed to mosques in white or other muted tones. What took our breath away was the perfect alignment between the gates of the mosque and Lahore Fort—two structures built in different eras, yet meticulously designed to complement each other. It was a testament to the architectural brilliance of the time.

Crossing the Ravi River to Jahangir’s Tomb

We journeyed onward to the Tomb of Emperor Jahangir, crossing the Ravi River en route. The road was lined with bustling vegetable and fruit markets, a lively scene showcasing the daily rhythm of local life. Despite the gray skies and air pollution that often veil Lahore’s beauty, the tomb itself was a marvel. Built in 1627, this UNESCO World Heritage Site combines red sandstone and white marble to create an architectural masterpiece. The symmetrical gardens, flowing fountains, and intricate inlays were mesmerizing. We even climbed the minarets, where Jahangir’s wife once mourned her husband. Standing there 400 years later was profoundly moving, even though the hazy air obscured the view of the distant mosque.

Shalamar Garden: A Paradise on Earth

Next, we visited Shalamar Garden, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1641, the garden is divided into three terraces, each with a distinct purpose. The fountains, pavilions, and lush greenery create a tranquil oasis amidst the city’s chaos. As a special treat, the garden staff turned on the fountains just for us, showcasing the grandeur of the Mughal waterworks. Each fountain’s unique design, including gendered water patterns, added to the garden’s artistic brilliance. Despite some areas requiring restoration and the persistent air pollution, the garden’s beauty and serenity left a lasting impression.

The Wagah Border: Unity and Patriotism on Display

The highlight of the day was undoubtedly the Wagah Border Flag Ceremony, a daily ritual that has taken place since 1959. The atmosphere was electric, with crowds waving flags and chanting patriotic slogans. The passion was contagious as the soldiers performed their synchronized, high-energy drills, stomping with fervor. The phrase “Pakistan Zindabad” (پاکستان زندہ باد), meaning “Long Live Pakistan,” echoed throughout the stadium, fostering a sense of unity and national pride.

What struck us most was the handshake between Indian and Pakistani soldiers at the end—a poignant reminder of the complex history between the two nations, once united under the Mughal Empire and later divided by British colonial rule. This moment, amidst the cheers of the crowd, was a powerful symbol of both division and shared heritage.

Culinary Farewell: Mutton Delights and Sweet Endings

We wrapped up the day with a late lunch at 7 PM, indulging in a mutton feast. The mutton naan, shaped like a mini pizza with a unique aroma, stood out as the highlight. For dessert, we savored an almond-infused herbal ice cream, a perfect end to a day of discovery. Though we planned to join a New Year’s Eve party, exhaustion got the better of us, and we fell asleep, dreaming of tomorrow’s visit to a new friend’s home.

This journey through Lahore was a profound blend of history, culture, and human connection. From the architectural wonders of the Mughal era to the patriotic fervor of the Wagah Border, every moment was a reminder of Pakistan’s rich and complex legacy.

A Unique Start to the Day

Yesterday, we had the privilege of experiencing Lahore’s rich history through a private tour with our guide. The tour was set to start at 3:30 PM, so we had a bit of time before meeting up. Our morning began with a unique breakfast ordering system at the hotel, where we placed our order by phone and waited about an hour for delivery. One thing I quickly learned about Pakistan is that tea, which I had expected to arrive almost immediately, actually takes a bit longer than anticipated. Lesson learned—it’s best to order with a bit of extra time on hand.

With time to spare, we headed towards the shopping streets to buy some local attire and a hijab. Along the way, we stumbled upon a charming second-hand bookstore where my husband bought a book about the history of Pakistan. After purchasing the hijab and a chadar (a men’s shawl), we tried on our new purchases, but the intricacies of how to wear them were a bit tricky. Fortunately, a local was kind enough to help us dress properly.

The streets were filled with fascinating handmade goods—from shoes and jewelry to intricate handcrafted items passed down through generations. However, the most striking sight was the spice shops, where massive sacks containing more than ten kilograms of spices were stacked high. The sheer scale of it was overwhelming.

A Taste of Local Flavor

Hoping to grab a quick lunch before our meeting time, we searched for a place inside the Delhi Gate area. Unfortunately, there weren’t many sit-down restaurants, just roadside vendors. As it seemed a bit too advanced for us, we opted to try something simple: steamed sweet potatoes. While they looked like regular potatoes, their taste was more akin to sweet potatoes. To our surprise, they were served chopped into pieces and sprinkled with spices. The simplicity of it was delightful.

My husband and I had been able to communicate in English up to this point, but for the first time, we faced a language barrier. Using Google Translate, I tried to ask how much something cost in Urdu, but it didn’t quite work. Just as we were feeling a bit lost, a kind local teenager approached us and offered assistance, explaining that the cost was 120 rupees. Once again, we were blown away by the kindness of the people here.

The Chai Adventure

As we continued to search for a place to sit and relax, we found a small indoor space where people were gathered to enjoy music and chai. Despite our limited time, we decided to enter, and a man playing a flute-like instrument greeted us, asking if we were from Japan. He said he could play a sound similar to the Japanese shakuhachi, and when we listened, it really did sound like it. He offered us chai, and although we had to leave quickly, he told us we could take it to-go. Unfortunately, “to-go” didn’t quite work out, so we paid for the chai and decided to return to drink it after the tour.

Once we met up with our guide, we explained our chai adventure and headed back to the chai shop. Fortunately, the tea was reheated, and we enjoyed a steaming cup of delicious chai.

Stepping into History: The Shahi Hammam

Our first stop on the tour was the Shahi Hammam (Royal Bath), a public bathhouse dating back to the early 17th century during the Mughal Empire. It was designed for relaxation and social gatherings, once frequented by travelers and nobles alike. The architectural design was inspired by Persian-style baths, complete with steam and warm baths, and beautifully adorned with frescoes depicting plants and geometric patterns. The bathhouse had unique features, including walls designed for secret meetings, adding an intriguing layer of history to the visit.

A Feast for the Senses: Local Delights

On our way, we sampled a traditional dish called Kozi Haleem, a thick stew made from wheat, meat, beans, and spices. The version we had used goat meat, and the addition of ginger gave it a deliciously rich flavor.

We also learned about the Ta’ziya, miniature tombs carried in procession to commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his family during the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. We watched a video of the Ta’ziya procession and were struck by the energy and passion of the event—an incredibly powerful display of devotion.

Majestic Mughal Architecture: Wazir Khan Mosque

Next, we visited the Wazir Khan Mosque, a beautiful example of Mughal architecture, known for its intricate tile work and colorful patterns. Built between 1634 and 1641, this mosque stands out as one of Lahore’s most iconic landmarks, much like the Taj Mahal, though it was not directly involved in its construction. Nearby, we stopped by a small shop where I had my hands decorated with Mehndi (henna), a tradition in Pakistani weddings to calm the bride’s nerves.

A Night of Local Traditions and Flavors

Our journey continued with a visit to a bustling night market, where our guide ordered a variety of local snacks for us to try, including a yogurt and curry mix, a cinnamon-flavored banana dessert, and a crispy snack covered in curry sauce. They were perfect for a light evening snack.

We explored more streets, including Bride Street, where glamorous wedding dresses were on display, and visited shops selling traditional handicrafts. Our next stop was the Sunehri Masjid (Golden Mosque), with its peaceful prayer hall and an electronic board displaying prayer times, particularly the six prayer sessions on Fridays.

Warm Hospitality and Cultural Immersion

As we wandered the streets, we were once again offered tea by a kind local, reinforcing the hospitality we had already experienced throughout the day. From there, we made our way to an antique shop specializing in brassware, a reminder of Pakistan’s Islamic heritage, and noticed the dense network of power lines, something we had also seen in India.

A Glimpse into Lahore’s Past: Haveli Barood Khana

Our final stop was the Haveli Barood Khana, a historical mansion built in the Mughal style. Once a residence for wealthy merchants, this building now serves as a cultural landmark, where we enjoyed a lively atmosphere as a wedding dress shoot took place. We sampled Trotters Mutton, a slow-cooked lamb dish, which was incredibly tender and rich in flavor.

Ending the Day on a Sweet Note

The day ended with a trip to Alif Chatkhala, a traditional eatery where we sampled spicy chicken and coconut milk-based desserts. As we sipped chai on a rooftop, we reflected on our day—filled with history, warmth, and the flavors of Lahore.

Tomorrow promises even more adventure as we explore the city further and visit the Wagah Border. Good night for now.

Waking up at 5:30 AM, we set out on a journey I had long anticipated—traveling from New Delhi to Amritsar Airport, and finally crossing the border into Pakistan. With no time for breakfast, the hotel thoughtfully packed a takeaway meal for us, a gesture that felt both convenient and kind.

The flight to Amritsar was smooth, but as soon as we landed, the atmosphere felt distinctly different. Many men wore turbans, a striking visual reminder that Amritsar is the spiritual heart of Sikhism. The turban, or dastaar, is a religious symbol worn by Sikh men to uphold the faith’s principles, including keeping their hair uncut (Kesh).

Amritsar is home to the magnificent Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib), the most sacred site in Sikhism, drawing millions of pilgrims annually. This explained the presence of so many turbaned men even at the airport.

We took an Uber to the Wagah border, but mentioning our plan to cross into Pakistan stirred mixed emotions among locals. Crossing the border seemed to evoke a sense of unease tied to the complex history between the two nations. Our Uber driver, upon hearing of our destination, shared a poignant story: his grandfather still resides in Pakistan, a relic of the 1947 Partition of India that divided families and land along religious lines. Hearing his perspective made the history we had only read about feel painfully real.

After a bit of negotiation, we paid extra for a one-way Uber trip—600 rupees plus a 100-rupee border entry fee. As we drove, I couldn’t help but notice how regional traffic norms varied. Our driver ignored the incessant seatbelt warning sound, a reminder that rules, though mandated, are often disregarded in parts of Punjab.

Upon reaching the border, our luggage was swiftly placed on the car roof—a style of transport that made us a bit uneasy. The driver advised us to bargain firmly with porters who would offer to carry our suitcase. Though we could have managed on our own, we paid 200 rupees to avoid the hassle, only to find out later that the distance was easily walkable.

Crossing the border itself was a surreal experience. Indian soldiers, towering and fit, bid us farewell with a mix of curiosity and formality, one even asking if we’d ever return. The imposing columns adorned with Gandhi’s photo stood as a reminder of India’s struggle for independence.

Once on the Pakistani side, the transition felt smoother than expected. Security checks were efficient, and persistent hawkers disappeared after a single refusal.

At the time of entry, I noticed a clever phrase displayed: “We respect all, but we suspect all.”

immigration caught my eye—simple yet profound, offering a sense of reassurance as we entered a new country.

We had planned to use the InDrive app for transportation but found no cars available near the border. Instead, we hired a rickshaw driver for 2,300 rupees, which felt like a reasonable compromise. Along the way, he entertained us with stories, pointed out landmarks, and even stopped at an ATM for us to withdraw cash.

As we moved away from the border, the scenery shifted. Initially, the area felt rural and underdeveloped, with stray cows and piles of rubble dotting the roads. But as we approached Lahore, the city revealed itself—a bustling hub of street vendors, banks, and universities.

To be honest, we hadn’t planned any tours or activities for our time in Lahore. Our only vague hope was to catch a glimpse of the historical charm of Punjab. With no clear itinerary, we decided to ask the hotel staff for recommendations. One of the staff members kindly suggested, “There’s a Japanese guest currently staying here. Perhaps you could ask them for some advice.” Intrigued, we decided to take his suggestion.

The Japanese traveler we were introduced to was traveling solo. He had arrived in Pakistan from Amritsar, India, and was planning to return the following day. He generously shared some tips with us:

• Haveli Restaurant: He recommended the rooftop view, which he described as stunning.

• Transportation: He advised that around famous temples, it might be hard to find transportation, so booking in advance or hiring a car for the whole day would be a good idea.

• Food: He suggested trying boti—spiced chicken—and handi, a curry-like dish.

• Apps: He mentioned having trouble with the authentication process for the InDrive app and instead used Careem, though the hotel staff later informed us that InDrive is more commonly used.

Discovering Lahore’s Charm

I found History by Night tour around Lahore Fort, which cost 2,000 PKR per person.

Initially, we wanted to purchase the tickets online, but it turned out that online booking required a local phone number. The website mentioned alternative spots where tickets could be purchased, so we decided to visit one of those locations. Unfortunately, the first spot didn’t sell the tickets and directed us to a ticket counter near Food Street, which was open until 7 PM.

Worried that the tour might sell out, we were trying to secure tickets early. However, it seemed that the tour wasn’t particularly crowded, and there was no need to rush.

Here, we encountered our first taste of Pakistani hospitality. A local resident not only looked up how to buy tickets but also gave us their name and phone number, saying, “Call me if you run into any trouble.” Their kindness left a lasting impression.

While at the ticket counter, some local children eagerly approached us. “Is that a camera? Where are you from? Can you show us Japanese money?” they asked with infectious curiosity. One even invited us for tea, which we had heard about on YouTube before arriving. Although tempted, we politely declined, explaining that we were heading to lunch first.

Lunch actually Dinner at Haveli Restaurant was as delightful as promised. The rooftop view of the mosque, though partially obscured by smog, was stunning. The food, less chili-laden than Indian cuisine yet richly spiced, was a comforting conclusion to the day.

History by Night: Lahore Fort

The evening was reserved for the History by Night tour of Lahore Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This guided experience was nothing short of magical, as the fort’s grandeur came alive under soft illumination. From intricately carved mosques to the sprawling courtyards that once hosted Mughal emperors, every corner whispered stories of a glorious past.

What set this tour apart was its immersive nature. Traditional music and dance performances added a layer of cultural richness, while local participants kindly translated portions of the Urdu commentary for us. Sharing this experience with both tourists and locals underscored the universal power of history to connect people across cultures.

After finishing the tour, a fellow participant offered me Meetha Paan, a traditional treat wrapped in a leaf with various herbs. The taste was incredibly unique, but I imagine it’s something like a minty palate cleanser, similar to a mint tablet (MINTIA) that you might have after a meal.

As for tomorrow, I hadn’t made any plans yet, but the same person from the tour kindly introduced me to a local guide. It looks like I’ll be having a guided tour tomorrow, which was a relief because I had found a few options on TripAdvisor for tours in Pakistan, but they were all quite expensive and had very few reviews. So, I’m glad to have secured a guide through this recommendation.

A Journey Through Time

Today’s journey from India to Pakistan was more than a geographical crossing—it was a dive into shared histories, complex relationships, and the resilience of human connections. From the lingering effects of Partition to the warm hospitality of strangers, every moment offered a new perspective. As we prepare for tomorrow’s adventures in Lahore, I can’t help but reflect on how travel continues to be the greatest teacher, bridging gaps and unraveling the stories that bind us all.

Good night from Lahore.

Today was dedicated to exploring the vibrant and chaotic streets of New Delhi. We stayed in the Aero City area, close to the airport, which was incredibly convenient for travelers. While the reviews had advised bringing earplugs due to the noise of planes, it wasn’t as disruptive as we had anticipated—though the faint hum of passing flights was noticeable.

After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we set out for the day. The breakfast offerings didn’t seem significantly different from what we’d experienced in Kochi, although there were noticeably more curry options that leaned toward soupy textures. Our first destination was the Red Fort, a historic marvel. We faced a decision: take an Uber for 350 INR or opt for a more immersive experience using the metro and bus, which would cost just 105 INR for two people. We chose the latter, an adventure that would prove both thrilling and challenging.

The Journey to Red Fort

Our journey began with a security check at the station before boarding the Airport Express Metro to New Delhi Station. The metro ride itself was surprisingly pleasant—uncrowded and air-conditioned. But the real test began when we arrived at the station. Finding the correct exit was a feat, as there were no clear signs. A kind security guard eventually unlocked a gate for us, though the exact exit we needed remained a mystery.

Once outside, we hunted for the bus stop, taking extra care to purchase bottled water with authentic labels. We had heard cautionary tales about counterfeit bottled water, so we scrutinized each label before making a purchase. A local vendor suggested we take the metro instead of the bus, but determined to stick to our plan, we continued searching for the bus stop. This proved to be a trial, as persistent tuk-tuk drivers surrounded us at every turn. As we ventured further from New Delhi Station, the commotion subsided, and we finally located the bus stop.

The bus ride itself was an experience. For just 5 INR per person, we boarded a well-worn vehicle with makeshift wiring visible throughout. Foreigners seemed to be a rarity here, as we drew curious glances from fellow passengers. One kind woman, her head covered with a scarf, offered me her seat when she noticed my unease amid the crowded aisles. The kindness of strangers is often the highlight of travel.

The advice to take the metro began to make sense as the bus crawled through relentless traffic. The open doors allowed passengers to hop on and off as they pleased—a testament to the city’s unique, unstructured rhythm.

Red Fort: A Symbol of India’s Rich History

Arriving at Red Fort, we were greeted by a bustling market filled with stalls selling everything from vibrant scarves to counterfeit water bottles. After navigating the chaos, we finally reached the entrance.

The Red Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a striking symbol of India’s Mughal history. Constructed in the 17th century by Shah Jahan—the visionary behind the Taj Mahal—it served as the Mughal Empire’s political and cultural hub after the capital was moved from Agra to Delhi.

The fort’s most notable feature is its immense red sandstone walls, stretching 2.5 kilometers and towering up to 33 meters. Walking through the Lahore Gate, we were transported back in time, marveling at the intricate details of Mughal architecture. Highlights included:

• Diwan-i-Aam: The Hall of Public Audience, where the emperor once addressed the grievances of his people. The ornate ceilings left us in awe.

• Diwan-i-Khas: The Hall of Private Audience, where high-ranking officials and royalty held discussions. This hall once housed the famed Peacock Throne.

• Nahr-i-Behisht: A canal aptly named “Stream of Paradise,” which added a cooling effect to the palace grounds.

The on-site museum provided insights into India’s colonial history and the independence movement. However, the focus on lesser-known figures rather than Mahatma Gandhi left us feeling underprepared, highlighting the importance of pre-trip research.

Lunch at Haldiram’s and an Evening at Akshardham

For lunch, we headed to Haldiram’s – Akshardham, a food court near the Akshardham metro station. Finding the entrance was a minor adventure in itself, as “0 Floor” on Google Maps turned out to mean the ground floor outside the station. We ordered a thali and a Raj Kachori, the latter being a delightful mix of crisp textures and tangy flavors—a street food favorite that felt like a blend of snack and dessert.

Next, we visited Akshardham, a modern yet traditional Hindu temple that exudes grandeur. Built in 2005, the temple’s intricate carvings and vast scale are a testament to the craftsmanship of over 7,000 artisans. Security was tight, with electronics prohibited inside, creating a refreshing, technology-free atmosphere. Watching the sunset illuminate the temple’s ornate sandstone structure was a magical experience, though we wished we had a deeper understanding of Hinduism to fully appreciate its rich symbolism.

The Akshardham temple, renowned as the largest Hindu temple in the world, was truly awe-inspiring in its sheer scale. Wanting to deepen my understanding, I decided to purchase a book about it. I was surprised to find it priced at just over 100 yen—remarkably affordable. Perhaps the low price is intended to support the spread of Hindu teachings, making it accessible to more people.

Wrapping Up the Day

The day ended with a visit to a jazz bar in New Delhi, a tranquil escape from the city’s constant cacophony. Sipping local beer while listening to smooth jazz provided a perfect contrast to the day’s adventures. For dinner, we opted for North Indian specialties like momos and a flavorful wrap. While the dishes were delicious, the spice level proved overwhelming, a reminder to specify preferences when ordering.

I had been carrying around damp, musty-smelling clothes for days, unable to dry them properly. Eventually, I reached my limit and decided to splurge on laundry service, even though it cost 400 rupees, which felt expensive. But it was worth every penny—they returned the clothes spotless and fresh, exceeding my expectations.

Initially, I hadn’t planned to visit Delhi, but due to a flight delay that disrupted my plans to see the Taj Mahal, I ended up spending that time in Delhi instead—and it turned out to be quite satisfying. That said, compared to the south, the north gave me a slightly intimidating impression, so thorough research seems essential when sightseeing here. Also, I’ve heard there are counterfeit water bottles, so it’s important to carefully check the logo before purchasing.

Tomorrow, we take a flight to Amritsar before heading to Pakistan—a destination that stirs equal parts excitement and apprehension. With its rich history and vibrant culture, Delhi has been an unforgettable chapter in our journey.

Christmas morning greeted us quietly in Kerala, the festive cheer more understated than in some places, yet subtly woven into the ambiance of our hotel. The faint sounds of Christmas music played in the background, hinting at the season. As we made our way to breakfast, we were met with an array of local Indian dishes that instantly lifted our spirits.

Curry, as expected, was the centerpiece—so many kinds, each bursting with vibrant colors like pink and red that piqued our curiosity. What exactly gave them that striking hue? Interestingly, the absence of freshly steamed rice surprised us. Instead, the spread was dominated by breads and rice-based alternatives. Do people in this region skip rice for breakfast? It was a small cultural discovery that added to our morning’s charm.

After breakfast, we headed to Bluemarine Backwaters, excited for a boat tour. The journey offered breathtaking views of migratory birds, mangrove forests, and Cochin’s iconic Chinese fishing nets. Our driver, a Yamaha motorbike enthusiast, shared his dilemma of finding spare parts for his vintage model, sparking a lively conversation about the popularity of Japanese brands like Yamaha, Suzuki, and Toyota in India.

The boat tour itself was a serene hour-long escape into nature. Seeing the Chinese fishing nets up close, exploring waterborne farming houses, and even climbing onto a mangrove tree—a sturdy, surprising experience—added a touch of adventure to the day.

Next, we spontaneously decided to visit the Kerala Folklore Museum. This wasn’t on our original itinerary, but we felt the urge to delve deeper into Kerala’s heritage beyond its scenic beauty. The museum turned out to be a treasure trove, showcasing over 3,000 artifacts curated by its passionate founder, George Thaliath Saras. From ancient wood carvings and musical instruments to traditional costumes, every piece told a story. Even the building itself, designed in Kerala’s traditional architectural style, was an artwork in its own right. My husband mused about buying some of the displayed items someday—if only we lived in a house grand enough to match their grandeur.

Our cultural exploration continued at the Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace. Originally gifted by the Portuguese to the Cochin Maharaja in 1555 and later renovated by the Dutch, the palace is a historical testament to the era of European colonial influence in India. Its walls adorned with exquisite murals from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, the palace felt like a bridge between Kerala’s traditions and its colonial past.

We then strolled through the nearby Jew Town, visiting the Paradesi Synagogue—the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth, built in 1568. The interior dazzled us with Belgian chandeliers, hand-painted Chinese tiles, and ancient Torah scrolls. It was a humbling reminder of the harmony with which Cochin’s Jewish community had coexisted with others in India for centuries.

For lunch, we were on a mission to try sadiya served on banana leaves. Despite our driver’s best efforts, we couldn’t find a restaurant offering banana leaves that day. Still, we settled for a “special meal” served on a plate for a mere ₹115 (about $2.30). The simple yet flavorful vegetarian dishes—served with rice at room temperature, a contrast to Japan’s piping-hot style—were a delightful revelation.

The afternoon was dedicated to relaxation at an Ayurvedic spa, where we experienced treatments like Kizhi, Abhyanga, and Shirodhara.

• Kizhi involved warm herbal poultices pressed firmly onto the body. Though the scent of herbs was more reminiscent of curry than a spa, the therapy’s invigorating effects were undeniable.

• Abhyanga, a full-body massage with warm medicinal oil, was pure bliss, melting away fatigue and tension.

• Shirodhara, where warm oil is gently poured onto the forehead, felt almost meditative. Despite initial hesitation, the rhythmic flow of oil brought an unexpected sense of calm.

Refreshed, we attended a Kathakali performance at the Great K V Kathakali Centre. The elaborate makeup, expressive storytelling through gestures and facial expressions, and the hauntingly beautiful sounds of the performance left us mesmerized. Arriving just 20 minutes before the show, we had to settle for seats on the second floor, but even from there, the drama was enthralling.

As night fell, the city glowed with festive lights, a mix of Christmas remnants and New Year preparations. For dinner, we indulged at Fort Paragon Restaurant, drawn by the promise of mango fish curry. While the curry was excellent, it was the spicy soups that stole the show—rich with crab stock, herbs like holy basil, and an unexpected warmth that lingered long after the meal. The desserts, especially the coconut-infused payasam, offered a perfect sweet ending.

Returning to our hotel, we navigated through the lively chaos of Cochin’s bustling streets. The city was alive, volunteers guiding traffic with heartfelt dedication—a testament to the vibrant spirit of this country.

Tomorrow, we board a train to New Delhi, ready for our next adventure. Goodnight, Kerala—you’ve been unforgettable.

After a long day of exhausting travel caused by an overbooking fiasco, we finally found solace at our hotel, nestled deep in the heart of nature. Waking up to the first rays of sunlight streaming through our window at 6:30 AM felt like a blessing. From our bed, we could catch glimpses of monkeys swinging gracefully from tree to tree, a vivid reminder that we were in the middle of a lush jungle. The hotel even had a cheeky “Beware of Monkeys” sign on our window—further proof that we were truly surrounded by wildlife.

Adding to the charm was the aroma of breakfast wafting into our room from the nearby dining area. The breakfast spread was an introduction to South India’s rich culinary tradition: crispy dosa, soft and fluffy idli, and a variety of flavorful curries accompanied by fresh tropical fruits. Of course, no South Indian breakfast is complete without a steaming cup of chai, served here from a massive container, a testament to how much this spiced tea is cherished locally. Sitting amidst a jungle-like setting and enjoying these delicacies was an invigorating start to the day.

Today’s itinerary was an exciting one: a visit to the famed tea gardens of Munnar. But first, we took precautions, generously applying insect repellent—an essential lesson learned after multiple mosquito bites during our previous stops in Sri Lanka.

Our first destination was Blossom Hydel Park, a serene oasis located just 3.2 kilometers from Munnar. Spanning 16 acres, the park offered vibrant flower gardens, lush greenery, and picturesque views. Perfect for families and nature lovers, it served as a peaceful escape from the rush of daily life. At the ticket counter, we encountered a classic local quirk: not having exact change meant we ended up paying extra for our tickets, with a promise of a refund later. Whether or not we’d actually get our change back added a touch of suspense to our visit.

Inside the park, we marveled at plants and flowers we’d never seen before, while families enjoyed zip-lining and other activities. To ensure we didn’t leave empty-handed (or without our refund), we explored the park’s shop. There, we succumbed to the charm of locally made chocolate tea—a unique combination we’d never encountered before—and purchased it as a souvenir.

Munnar’s tea gardens were everything we imagined: vast expanses of lush green plantations that stretched as far as the eye could see. Guided by our driver, we stopped at some of the best photo spots, capturing memories against this stunning backdrop. He explained that much of the tea here is produced by Tata under the CTC (Crush, Tear, Curl) method, which makes it ideal for chai preparation. It’s no wonder the chai we had earlier was so exquisite—it’s the result of generations of refinement and research.

Following the tea gardens, we visited a shop selling Kerala’s famed banana chips. With multiple varieties—salty, masala-spiced, and sweet—we opted for the savory and spiced versions, which promised an interesting snack for later.

Next came a thrilling first for us: a hot air balloon ride. Popular among Indian tourists, we waited in line for about 30 minutes before boarding. Rising to 200 feet, we were treated to panoramic views of Munnar’s tea estates, jungles, and small towns. While we had envisioned a serene, photo-perfect experience, the reality was far more thrilling—unexpected turbulence made the ride feel more like an adventurous roller coaster than a gentle float.

As we continued our journey, we made a stop at a shop selling traditional Indian garments and perfumes. Although the silk attire wasn’t practical for our needs, my husband was drawn to the scents of Kerala’s locally crafted perfumes. After a bit of negotiation—something we’re clearly not experts at—we purchased two bottles, “Jordan” and “Woody,” which seemed to perfectly capture the region’s essence.

Lunch was a vibrant affair at a bustling local restaurant. We indulged in pepper paneer (a delicious cottage cheese dish), parotta (flaky flatbread), and pothu pepper roast (a spiced beef dish), among others. While most of the dishes were delightful, the richness of the ghee was a bit heavy for us, but the authentic flavors were well worth it.

Our final daytime adventure was a visit to a spice garden. Here, we learned about the medicinal and culinary uses of various spices. It was fascinating to discover how everyday ingredients like turmeric and cardamom have potent healing properties. Despite the persuasive sales pitch for herbal products, we resisted making any purchases—youth has its perks!

The day wrapped up with a stop at Cheeyappara Waterfalls. Though crowded with tourists, the cascading water was a sight to behold. Stalls nearby offered a variety of snacks and trinkets, adding a festive vibe to the area.

As we returned to Kochi, we stopped at a local supermarket to stock up on more banana chips and other quirky snacks. The Christmas decorations in the store—a nativity scene and a tree—reminded us of how unique this season feels in South India.

Our evening ended at the Four Points by Sheraton Kochi Infopark. The hotel exuded luxury, with a subtle fragrance that instantly made us feel relaxed. For dinner, we walked to a highly rated restaurant, Thaal Kitchen, only to discover that the banana leaf dishes we had hoped to try were only available for breakfast or lunch. Nevertheless, the biryani and parotta we ordered did not disappoint, and we left satisfied.

Back at the hotel, we capped off the night with plum cake—a spiced delicacy that tasted more like cardamom than plum—and a curious herbal drink we’d picked up earlier. The cake was surprisingly refreshing, and though the drink had a peculiar flavor, it added an adventurous touch to our Christmas celebration.

Tomorrow promises a more leisurely exploration of Kochi. For now, it’s time to rest and dream of the vibrant adventures that await. Goodnight!

Our day began at the crack of dawn—6 a.m., to be precise. We had an Uber booked to take us to Colombo International Airport, a far more budget-friendly option at $6 compared to the $20 hotel car service. However, when we arrived at the hotel lobby, there was no car in sight. The tracking app showed the vehicle wasn’t moving at all, leaving us in a mild panic. Should we splurge on a more expensive ride, or wait it out? Thankfully, the car eventually arrived, and we were off. It left us wondering, though—is Uber always this unpredictable in Sri Lanka?

Upon arriving at the airport, we breathed a sigh of relief—only for it to be cut short by our next ordeal. Our flight to Cochin was overbooked, and we were informed that we couldn’t board. It was our first experience dealing with an overbooked flight, and we were unsure how to proceed. The airline presented us with two options:

1. Stay in Sri Lanka for the night, with all transport and accommodations covered, and fly to Cochin the following day.

2. Board a flight to Thiruvananthapuram International Airport (a name we could barely pronounce!) instead, and have ground transport arranged from there to Cochin.

We initially misunderstood, thinking the airline’s support only extended within Sri Lanka. But upon clarification, they promised to arrange a taxi from airport to airport—even in India. Since we already had plans in Cochin starting that evening, we chose the second option.

What stood out to us during this rather stressful situation was how the airline staff responded. “You’re lucky,” one staff member told us with a smile. “At least you’re getting to India today!” Another assured us that choosing the Thiruvananthapuram route was “the best option.” Their positivity was almost infectious, if not slightly amusing. Perhaps it’s a reflection of Sri Lankan culture—or maybe just those particular staff members—but it made us rethink how we handle tough situations.

After a quick meal onboard (a vegetable-filled pastry reminiscent of fried bread, paired with apple juice), we touched down in Thiruvananthapuram just 45 minutes later. Upon landing, the Sri Lankan Airlines staff swiftly guided us to our prearranged taxi.

Here’s where the next surprise awaited us: no visible ATM at the airport. We exchanged about 4,000 yen for Indian rupees, receiving just 1,600 rupees in return—an exchange rate that left us speechless. With cash in hand, we met our driver and embarked on the long journey to Cochin.

The drive, estimated at over five hours on Google Maps, initially felt daunting. However, our driver turned out to be a fascinating conversationalist. A Kerala native working in Saudi Arabia as a management professional, he shared stories of his background as an electrical engineer, sparking lively discussions about work, culture, and travel.

He treated us to breakfast at a local Kerala restaurant, where we sampled Idiyappam (string hoppers made of rice flour) and Dosa (a thin, crispy crepe), paired with aromatic coconut-based curries. The dishes were so flavorful that we momentarily forgot the morning’s chaos. When we told him that butter chicken and naan dominate Indian cuisine in Japan, he laughed, explaining that South Indian food is an entirely different world. A hot cup of authentic chai was the perfect finishing touch, warming us from the inside out.

During the drive, he also introduced us to the subtle differences between yellow and green coconuts—yellow ones being sweeter and softer, while green ones are crunchier with a more tangy juice. It was a small lesson in tropical produce that felt like a gift from the journey itself.

As we continued, we passed numerous cars adorned with yellow flowers. Curious, we learned they were heading to the Sabarimala Festival, a significant Hindu pilgrimage. This was a moment we would have missed entirely without a local to point it out.

Lunch brought another delightful culinary experience—short-grain, fluffy rice served with flavorful curries at a roadside restaurant frequented by locals and even the police. It was a meal that was as authentic as it gets.

The conversations during the drive ranged from India’s educational system to Kerala’s unique matrilineal heritage and even snippets of the Malayalam language. We learned that “thank you” is Nandi (നന്ദി) and “hello” is Namaskaram. While pronouncing Malayalam words felt like a tongue twister, it was a fun introduction to Kerala’s linguistic landscape.

After parting ways with our newfound friend in Thiruvalla, we continued the journey, finally arriving in Cochin to meet our second driver. Another two hours on the road brought us closer to Munnar, our ultimate destination. The driver played Tamil and Malayalam music to keep the mood lively as the fatigue of the day set in.

It was Christmas Eve, and the streets were alive with Santa Claus costumes and decorations—a surprising sight, considering India’s diverse religious landscape.

For dinner, we stopped at a local spot near Munnar, enjoying Kerala fish curry and coconut rice. The curry, a delicate balance of spices like cardamom, star anise, and cloves, paired perfectly with the lightly sweet coconut-infused rice.

Finally, after what felt like an endless day, we checked into our hotel in Munnar. A warm cup of spiced chai and a slice of Christmas plum cake awaited us—a sweet end to a chaotic but enriching day.

Upon checking in, we were pleasantly surprised when the staff handed us a plum cake, saying it was a special treat for Christmas Eve.

Our room, apparently designed for three guests, was quite spacious. While the amenities weren’t particularly impressive—things like toiletries and a hairdryer had to be requested—it didn’t detract much from the experience. Perhaps this is standard in India.

What stood out was the setting: the property was surrounded by a jungle-like atmosphere, enveloping us in the sounds of nature. The chirping of insects and the ambient noises of the night created an unexpectedly soothing environment, making it a uniquely restful night.

Tomorrow, we’ll explore Munnar’s famed tea plantations and spice gardens. For now, we’ll rest, grateful for the unexpected detours that made this journey unforgettable.

Thanks for joining us on this adventure. See you tomorrow!

Embarking on the second day of our Sri Lankan adventure, we joined a tour to explore the ancient wonders of Sigiriya, located in the Matale District of Sri Lanka’s Central Province. This UNESCO World Heritage site, often referred to as the “Lion Rock,” is renowned for its rich history and breathtaking views.

Our journey commenced with an early morning departure from our hotel in Negombo. At 6:00 AM, we were picked up by a comfortable bus, part of a group of approximately 15 travelers, all eager to delve into the cultural treasures that lay ahead. The three-hour drive to Dambulla was serene, offering glimpses of Sri Lanka’s lush landscapes bathed in the soft morning light.

Upon arriving in Dambulla, we paused for breakfast at a local eatery. The menu presented a choice between a traditional Sri Lankan buffet and a simplified English-style breakfast. Opting for the latter, we ordered café au lait, a mango milkshake, and a breakfast set. To our surprise, the mango milkshake resembled a custard in sweetness and was warmer than anticipated, defying our expectations of a chilled smoothie. The eggs, notably more yellow than the orange-hued yolks we’re accustomed to in Japan, added a unique touch to the meal.

With our appetites satisfied, we proceeded to the Dambulla Rock Temple, also known as the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple. This temple, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, is celebrated as Sri Lanka’s most well-preserved cave temple complex. Situated 148 kilometers east of Colombo and 72 kilometers north of Kandy, the temple comprises over 80 documented caves in its vicinity.

As we ascended towards the temple, our guide advised against touching the handrails—not due to their sanctity, but because local monkeys often soiled them. Indeed, monkeys were a common sight throughout the area. Inside, numerous Buddha statues stood in serene poses, each with distinct expressions and gestures. Our guide elucidated the significance behind each statue, enriching our understanding of Buddhist iconography.

The highlight was the second cave, known as the Maharaja Vihara, translating to “Great King’s Monastery.” This cave, the largest among the five, houses over 50 statues of Buddha and is adorned with intricate murals that left us in awe.

Our next destination was the iconic Sigiriya Rock. This ancient rock fortress, constructed in the late 5th century by King Kasyapa, who seized the throne after assassinating his father, stands as a testament to his quest for absolution and defense against retribution. The site features three distinct gardens: the Water Garden, the Boulder Garden, and the Terrace Garden, each showcasing advanced landscaping and engineering marvels of the time.

Initially, we intended to climb to the summit; however, upon learning from our guide that reaching the top required ascending 1,200 steps and, due to the holiday season and concurrent school trips, entailed a waiting time of approximately two hours, we reconsidered. A fellow traveler mentioned a wait of about 40 minutes, suggesting the delay might be shorter, but considering the group’s schedule, we decided against the ascent. Some determined individuals negotiated to proceed to the top independently—a testament to their resolve.

Following the Sigiriya visit, the group split into two: one faction embarked on a jeep safari, while others, including us, participated in a village tour. The tour commenced with a ride on a traditional bullock cart, transporting us to a rural setting that offered an authentic glimpse into Sri Lankan village life. Observing the treatment of the oxen, marked with inscriptions and occasionally prodded by their handlers, evoked a mix of contemplation and empathy.

Subsequently, we boarded a tuk-tuk, navigating through rugged terrain, followed by a serene boat ride where we were treated to the crafting of lotus leaf hats. Upon crossing the river, we arrived at a rustic hut, rich with cultural ambiance. The aroma of freshly ground coconut filled the air as a local woman demonstrated the traditional preparation of roti.

The meal that awaited us was a culinary revelation. An array of earthenware pots lined the table, unveiling a variety of curries—each distinct in flavor and consistency. Served on banana leaves, the meal epitomized authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. Eating with our hands, a customary practice, added to the immersive experience. Despite the absence of modern kitchen appliances, our hosts prepared this elaborate feast in just an hour—a testament to their culinary prowess.

The tour also included demonstrations of traditional roof-making using coconut leaves, rice milling, and rice flour production. A personal touch was added when our host shared a photograph of her daughter studying in Colombo, subtly appealing for support—a poignant reminder of the universal aspirations parents hold for their children’s futures.

While the day’s experiences were enriching, the conclusion was marred by an extended wait. Our tour concluded around 4:00 PM, but the jeep safari group was delayed. Parked in front of a silk shop, we were encouraged to browse, but after exhausting the shop’s offerings, we spent several hours idly waiting on the bus. The driver remained outside, engrossed in videos, offering no updates, while fellow travelers sighed intermittently. This prolonged delay tested our patience, yet it also provided an unfiltered glimpse into the leisurely pace that characterizes certain aspects of South Asian culture—a facet my husband found particularly intriguing.

We finally arrived back at our hotel around 10 PM, exhausted but fulfilled after the long day. With no nearby restaurants and zero energy to visit a supermarket, we decided to order dinner through Uber Eats. Our choices? A Chicken Mix Special, biryani, a mysterious dish called shawarma (which turned out to be similar to a croquette), and an egg curry. The total came to 2,910 Sri Lankan rupees—cheap, perhaps?

As expected, the delivery came without spoons, so we decided to practice eating with our hands once again. The biryani was intensely spicy, to the point that I questioned whether I’d make it through the meal. Thankfully, the sweetness of the pineapple offered the perfect counterbalance, rescuing me from culinary defeat.

The Chicken Mix Special was quite different from the photo on the app, but the ingredients seemed accurate—perhaps the kind delivery person mixed everything for us beforehand. The blend of Sri Lankan spices was absolutely divine, adding a richness that lingered with every bite.

After indulging in this flavorful feast, we fell asleep with full bellies and satisfied hearts. Tomorrow, we head to South India—a new adventure awaits, and I’m eager to discover how it compares to the vibrant world of Sri Lanka.

Today was a day of transit, spent largely within the confines of an airplane, yet I find myself already enamored with Sri Lanka. Some might say it’s premature, but let me share the experiences that have kindled this affection.

From the moment I boarded SriLankan Airlines, I was enveloped in an ambiance rich with cultural nuances. The cabin crew, adorned in traditional attire, exuded warmth and approachability. I observed a fellow passenger so engrossed in conversation with a flight attendant that he scarcely returned to his seat—a testament to their engaging nature. Attentive to the slightest gestures, they not only anticipated our needs but also indulged in light-hearted banter, a rarity among other airlines.

The culinary offerings onboard were delightful. For the first meal, we were presented with choices of beef, vegetable, or chicken. My husband opted for the chicken, while I chose the beef, only to be pleasantly surprised by a sukiyaki dish. My husband’s selection resembled a chicken curry, embodying Sri Lankan flavors. Although I initially felt a tinge of disappointment for missing out on a local dish, he graciously shared his meal with me. The curry, mildly spiced with a hint of sweetness, possessed a depth of flavor that was truly satisfying.

The second meal, informed by prior research, offered options of noodles, rice, or chicken. My husband chose the noodles, which turned out to be udon, while I selected the fish curry. The dish, moderately spicy, paired exquisitely with rice, leaving a lasting impression on my palate.

Despite the eight-hour journey, the extensive selection of in-flight entertainment kept monotony at bay. I indulged in a Sri Lankan love story and the latest installment of the Matrix, both of which were thoroughly enjoyable. The Sri Lankan film bore a resemblance to Indian cinema, with spontaneous dance sequences and a juxtaposition of upbeat music against serious scenes, adding to its charm.

Upon arriving at Colombo Airport, we encountered no persistent touts and seamlessly secured an Uber for approximately 1,500 Sri Lankan Rupees to our hotel. The hotel itself was a delightful surprise, boasting a pool and a bar. We were welcomed with a refreshing drink made from a local fruit, the name of which escapes me.

During an evening stroll, we were enchanted by the sight of fireflies. Though I’ve heard they were once common, I had never witnessed them in Japan. Their ethereal glow deepened my appreciation for Sri Lanka’s natural beauty.

A visit to a local supermarket allowed us to purchase spices, tea, and exotic fruits. The array of unfamiliar produce and quaintly sized vegetables was exhilarating. We also picked up some local sweets. Despite forgetting to bring a plastic bag, the store provided one free of charge.

Back at the hotel, we dined at the in-house restaurant due to the lack of nearby options. The highlight of the meal was Kottu Roti—a popular Sri Lankan dish comprising chopped roti, scrambled eggs, onions, chilies, and a choice of meat or vegetable curry. The unique texture, distinct from udon, combined with a rich blend of spices, was utterly delectable. While the meat was slightly tough, the seafood was exceptional, prompting me to anticipate more seafood delights during our stay.

Taking minor precautions, such as using bottled water for brushing our teeth, we settled in comfortably. Tomorrow, we venture to Sigiriya, and I eagerly await the experiences that lie ahead.